Vogue

February 2007

Dark Victory
By Jeffrey Steingarten

"It used to be that when you wanted to send, serve, or nibble on a box of truly fine chocolates, there were just two or three places you could call. Nowadays it's not so easy. Everywhere you look there's a brand-new shop selling handmade chocolates. Before the multiverse of chocolatiers expands beyond measuring and spins out of control, I thought I should check it out...

I've never fully disentangled the difference between toffee and butter crunch. Nonetheless: Valerie surrounds a generous square of crisp toffee with a thick coating of dark chocolate; unlike other versions, each square is flavored with something good (orange, almond with fleur de sel, hazelnuts, ginger) and decorated with a strip of the same flavor, elevating this candy moment into something nearly gastronomic...Many others produce similar candy. These are the best."

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